1. Field of the Invention
The invention relates to the field of cosmetology and dermatology, and can be used in biology, pharmacy, cosmetics, veterinary and food industry, in particular in cosmetic science for the development of technologies for manufacturing cosmetic products for skin, hair and nails.
2. Description of Related Art
It is known that the penetration of biologically active substances into the deeper layers of the skin also depends on the size and homogeneity of the oil phase of a cosmetic cream, which includes vegetable and essential oils as well as a number of important extracts and other oil-soluble ingredients. As a rule, in the technology of the cream manufacturing the tendency has been for dividing the oil phase by droplets having the size as small as possible.
In this case, along with liposomes of emulsion, “oil in water” biologically active ingredients being dissolved in the oil phase of the emulsion and adsorbed at the interface can penetrate through the layers of the epidermis.
It is known the method of manufacturing of a cosmetic cream that includes the following process steps:                Weighing and melting of the raw materials;        Preparation of oil and aqueous phase;        Emulsification;        Cooling and perfuming;        Packing in the packing materials.        
For the preparation of the aqueous phase the ingredients are heated up to 75-80 degrees (Celsius). To prepare the oil phase the ingredients are heated up to 80-85 degrees. Further, there is mixture of the fat and aqueous phases. Under certain conditions (temperature, pH environment, entry order) DNA and preservatives are added to a creamy mass.
The disadvantage of this method is the considerable power requirement of the technologies for the cream manufacturing and reducing of the bioactivity of its components while preparation of the product due to the fact that the process of the emulsion is made by heating up to 80-85° C., further there is homogenization of the two phases, which makes difficult the adding of components and additives that are critical to thermal decomposition (temperature up to 40-45° C.) and at the same time required for homogenization. It is required to take into consideration of optimum temperature at different stages of adding supplements and vitamin complexes provided continuation of the process of homogenization. In case it is required to obtain several volumes of different emulsion formulations, it calls for parallel operation of multiple sets of equipment that greatly complicates the production and increases the cost of the products.
It is known the method of obtaining a cosmetic product in the form of emulsion comprising a dispersion of soluble components, emulsifiers, and biologically active substances (having any origin), solid powdered ingredients (sorbents or abrasives) in a solvent at room temperature therewith the components are added simultaneously or sequentially through the separate directly in the insonation chamber of rotary cavitation machine where cavitation emulsification process is implemented, while passing through the insonation chamber of emulsion complex “Myna” (or any other) and an aqueous solution.
This method also does not take an opportunity for simultaneous processing and homogenization of cosmetic emulsions with different composition and ingredients that may require different processing time and their optimal temperatures.
The closest is in fact a method wherein an increase of amplitude of acoustic waves in the treated liquid medium is effected due to the resonance in-phase oscillations of each of the long sides of the rectangular channel cross sections and additional superposition of waves inside the channel, at that the intrinsic distance is equal to the small side of the channel and is multiple of quarter of an acoustic wave in the treated medium. This allows to focus the maximum power on resonating oscillation frequency of the large side of the channel and to obtain a standing acoustic wave of high intensity inside the channel.
The research carried out by the company “DERMANIKA” revealed that the fundamental dispersity mode while such treatment procedure can be ˜500 nanometers, the emulsion practically does not contain the dispersion phase more than 1000 nanometers (1 micron), the emulsion contains 2-3 times less emulsifier than usual. At that, the rotary-pulsed homogenizers allow to obtain emulsions in which the size of the dispersion phase is just beginning from 1000 nanometers (1 micron) with a larger volume of emulsifier.
The research has been partially reported at the XIV International scientific-practical conference “Cosmetics and raw materials: safety and efficiency” in October 2009, where it was marked the second place and a diploma, there are publications in designated magazines.
In the circumstances there is an improvement of the quality of the product, in accordance with the criteria (threshold) of cavitation and the resonant behavior with maximum efficiency, there are secured better key figures on intensification of combined physical-chemical, hydromechanical, heat-exchanging and mass-exchanging processes in the processing medium and the obtained at the output minimum size and homogeneity of fat (oil) phase.
This technology is implemented on an industrial scale in the operating cosmetic production plant “CJSC EMANSI Laboratory.” The first products manufactured by this technology, hand cream Anti Smell Smoke (for smokers, against the influence of nicotine and smoke to hand skin), took the whole cycle of certification tests (Sanitary and epidemiological inspection report No. 77.01.12.915.P.006156.02.10 of Feb. 3, 2010 and the Declaration of conformity, the results of which are also confirmed by independent testing of laboratory “Spectrum” with the corresponding protocol No. 19 dated Dec. 22, 2009.
However, this technology also does not take an opportunity for simultaneous treatment of several cosmetic emulsions with different composition and ingredients.